On A Transparent Supply Chain

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We begin with what, in 2016, should be a commonplace statement: human-generated climate change is real, and it is our responsibility to understand our own contribution to this defining issue of our generation, one that will have existential implications for generations to come.

For LUMI, this effort to understand our ecological impact has been a priority for the last several years, which has led us to re-evaluate every aspect of our production and distribution process, from design to manufacturing to packaging to logistics. In every instance, we have started from the same core ideal: to strive towards 100% sustainable practices that, whenever possible, have a positive effect on the social and economic well-being of our production partners, while at the same time result in the least negative impact on local environments.

While still some way off our ideal goal, the results of this multi-year effort have, nevertheless, been significant: 65% of LUMI’s products are now wholly made in Europe, with 60% made exclusively with vegetable tanned leather, as against an industry standard of only 10%. We would like to share some of what we have learned along the way, in our ongoing efforts to make LUMI a fully sustainable and transparent enterprise.

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All our products are designed in-house, by our designers Sanna Kantola and Bruno Beaugrand, at our headquarters in Helsinki, Finland.

Not only does this give us unparalleled creative freedom, but also gives us complete, integrated control over the entire product decision-making process, which begins with a single, guiding idea: to design products that will stand the test of time, based on tried and true Nordic design principles.

As we like to say, consume less, but better, something that is only possible with intelligently designed products that are made with the highest quality materials. For without a clear, concise design language and direction, we will never find our way towards genuinely sustainable consumption choices. And, what does all this design theory mean in actual practice? Your LUMI bag is the only bag you will ever need.

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In contrast to many fast-fashion leather goods makers, who rely on high volume, chemical-based leather tanning, LUMI works directly with small-scale, artisanal leather tanneries that specialize in traditional vegetable tanning methods.

Not only does this allow us a fantastic level of control over leather quality and coloring for each one of our seasonal collections, it also ensures that we know about provenance, especially how our leather is tanned. While it does have certain negative ecological effects, it is clear that vegetable tanning represents a major step forward, and is the future of the leather industry, especially as we learn more about the multiple harmful effects of chemical tanning methods.

Read more about our use of the ancient, artisanal veg-tanned leather process here.

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Once the design sketches are complete, and with the right leather selections in place, everything is sent to our factory partners for assembly. As with our tannery partners, LUMI works to establish a close relationship with factory owners, including regular factory visits every year, as well as almost daily electronic contact.

Given that our factory partners are small-scale, often family run operations, our regular contact leads to what can only be described as an intimate relationship with the people who make our products — we have even been invited to a few weddings! This intimate knowledge of the factory floor also allows us to monitor all aspects within our supply chain, both in terms of production methods and fair labour practices.

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With the care we take in choosing the right production partners, we are proud to publish provenance details for all our products in our online shop. Our Limited Edition, Mhann line, Shoe line, Natural line, Raw+ line, and Kids line are all made in Portugal; the Vivid line in Spain; our Scent line in Sweden; and our Soft Line and Supermarket Bags are made in India.

Whether in its design, tanning, or manufacturing choices, LUMI remains committed to a fully transparent process, so our customers know exactly how and where their specific LUMI bag is made. We look forward to sharing even more details about our production process in the future.

LUMI is a proud member of the Nordic Fashion Association. Read more about our efforts at www.nicefashion.org. And, for more information on the importance of transparency in the fashion industry more generally, visit www.fashionrevolution.org.

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